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What is it?
It’s a toner. The first step after cleansing to hydrate, soothe and prepare skin for the next skincare steps, e.g. serums, ampoules, emulsions and creams. This toner in particular caught my eye for its great ingredients list and the fact that the purslane (Portulaca Oleracea) in skincare is intriguing me lately.
Portulaca Oleracea Extract is found in almost every product reviewed here on mblovesskincare.com. Popularity of this botanical extract in skin care definitely caught my eye. Why is it so?
Purslane is annual succulent in the family Portulacaceae, which may reach 40 cm (16 in) in height /Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portulaca_oleracea /.
Purslane is old folk medicine. Also edible plant; moreover, rich in omega 3 acids and especially vitamins A, B, C and E and the whole group of minerals including iron, magnesium, zinc and other.
For that composition it’s no wonder purslane found its place in skincare industry. Its antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and skin repairing properties were just screaming cosmetics. So loudly, that in 2002 Avon patented: topical compositions containing components of plants from the Purslane family and methods for improving the aesthetic appearance of skin, particularly, preventing, ameliorating, treating and/or reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles. More particularly, the present invention relates to the use of topical compositions containing extract from the Portulaca oleracea plant to treat signs of dermatological aging, especially facial lines and deep wrinkles, and/or improve the aesthetic appearance of the skin. Preferably, the composition is applied once daily to the skin. /Abstract: Use of purslane to treat facial wrinkles, Patent Number: US7060303B2, Inventor: Brian C. Jones, Original Assignee: Avon Products Inc https://patents.google.com/patent/US7060303B2/en /
Summary of this patent states: (…) It is a further aspect of the present invention to provide a method of treating fine lines and/or wrinkles, comprising applying to skin a topical, composition having an amount of a component from a Purslane plant effective to prevent, ameliorate and/or reduce fine lines and/or wrinkling.
It is yet another aspect to provide a method for delivering the benefits of substances such as Botulinum toxin, without the toxicity or other undesirable side effects associated with such substances. / https://patents.google.com/patent/US7060303B2/en /
Basically, Avon is aiming to protect its technology of making botoxless anti-wrinkle skincare product with its star ingredient purslane. I in particular do not know the effects of this Avon product, but this is interesting more for the claims on this particular plant extract – Portulaca Oleracea Extract.
From folks medicine and tasty purslane salads, purslane made its way to contemporary skincare use. This very recent review published in International Journal of Science and Research (Volume 7, Issue 11, November 2018) is dedicated to use of purslane in skin care:
Abstract: Purslane is a real power herb that strengthens and protects our body and skin against damaging environmental influences. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is an herbaceous plant belongs to the family Portulacaceae. Purslane is an annual succulent and widely distributed around the globe. This plant possesses mucilaginous substances which are of medicinal importance. It has potential benefits in skin care. Purslane has incredible antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti inflammatory and wound healing properties and brightens the complexion and even prevents future signs of aging. The key ingredients are omega-3 fatty acid, vitamin A, E and B complex. This review helps to create an interest in purslane in developing new formulation in skin care. Quote: Purslane in Cosmetics: A Review, Garima Jaiswal, Department of Cosmetic Technology, Somalwar Nikalas Mahila Mahavidhyalaya, Nagpur, India. Published: International Journal of Science and Research (IJSR), ISSN: 2319-7064 https://www.ijsr.net/archive/v7i11/ART20193014.pdf
Which leads us to Caryophy Portulaca Toner and its 0.1% of Portulaca Oleracea Extract contained.
Caryophy is Korean green brand, whose products have purslane extract in common. Name originates from Caryophyllales, botanical order to which purslane belongs.
They claim for this toner to be:
A toner soothes your stimulated skin to make your skin smoother. Calms your stimulated skin down and helps absorption of active ingredients to make your skin healthy. Hydrates your skin from deep inside as well as removing skin flakes and impurities to make your skin smooth. /Caryophy/
Not that ambitious, I would say.
This green, plastic bottle contains 300 ml/10.14 fl.oz. of slightly viscous colourless liquid (texture very similar to Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner).
It does have light alcohol scent to it, after all, alcohol is on the third place of the ingredients list. The other scent component is also very similar to Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner.
How to use it?
After cleansing, take an appropriate amount of this product, soak it in the cotton sufficiently. Swipe gently from the T zone which produces a lot of sebum secretion quantity, and lightly pat to absorb. /Caryophy/
This toner is my perfect morning toner. I don’t cleanse my face in the morning, just splash it with lukewarm water and then use toner with the cotton pad.
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol, Glycerin, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Moringa Oleifera Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract (0.1 %), Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate, Xantan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2Hexanediol
(From the actual packaging)
Alcohol is very high in the list (hence the smell), but it is not drying at all. It is almost inevitable with this amount of pure plant extracts listed here. Centella Asiatica, Ginseng, moringa, with their active compunds: madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, madecassoside, asiaticoside.
There is also betaine salicylate, a milder version of BHA effect, for mild exfoliation, pore care, and antimicrobial activity.
Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate is interesting for its antimicrobial and antifungal activity.
Overall, very interesting ingredients list created for anti-inflammatory and skin soothing action.
Who is it for?
All skin types, normal, oily, combination, acne, rosacea
Does it work?
My favourite morning toner. It definitely delivers what it promises. But, it needs time. This will not be your miracle, one-swipe-wonder toner. No. It is rather slow going, but it will get you there stuff.
I was really patient with it. I introduced it very slowly into my skincare routine, and in a while, it started to show its action. But it was shy. So shy that I thought it was lazy. But after a couple of weeks (or more) it began to make its impact on my skin. It was fresh, calm, clean for the day. I will not talk about pores as my skin is AHA, BHA junkie, so this can’t qualify. Or can it?
I measured its pH and it fitted neatly between 4 and 5. So it is acidic enough for adjusting toner. More on this you can read here.
Through this toner purslane with the help of its friends centella asiatica, ginseng and moringa showed their soothing properties to my skin. Not that much anti-inflammatory, but good enough.
Oily skin types will just love this toner. That feeling of fresh and clean skin protected with nice anti acne and pore caring ingredients, will I’m sure, stoke you.
I’m looking forward to summertime heat to fight back with this toner.