(Not sponsored. No affiliate links.)
New UK skin care brand The Inkey List (very amusing name, try to pronounce it fast. Now do it again) has launched their first batch in August 2018. For now they have 15 skin care products with similar philosophy as Deciem’s The Ordinary, and that’s focusing on advanced active ingredient product for the price less than 10£ or 12$.
What caught my eye was this selection of The Inkey List products:
Let’s see how they performed.
What is it?
Lactic acid is one of Alpha Hydroxy Acids that I already mentioned and described here. This AHA in particular is very popular in skin care products due to its good exfoliating efficiency when formulated within pH range of 3.0 – 4.0 and concentration of 5 to 12%. It is used to exfoliate and to brighten up dull skin tone and improve skin texture.
This Lactic Acid of The Inkey List is exfoliating serum formulated with soothing ingredients to minimize potential skin sensitivity.
I measured its pH and it is 3.5 – 4.0 which nicely fits exactly where it should be. Concentration of lactic acid is 10%.
When compared to The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA it is very similar, but not the same. They differ in colour (The Inkey List colourless, The Ordinary peachy colour), texture (The Inkey List watery, The Ordinary viscous), and scent (The Inkey List is almost scentless).
Maybe, I would even dare to say this one (The Inkey List) is slightly better and less sensitizing. Although it does provoke tingling sensation, but nothing dramatic.
This is how The Inkey List describes its Lactic Acid:
Starring a natural AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), THE INKEY LIST’s Lactic Acid Serum is enriched with 10% lactic acid that’s derived from milk and fruit sugars. Applying anything with the word ‘acid’ to your face can sound scary – but here’s why it’s good… Acting as a mild exfoliant, this serum helps to dissolve the bonds binding dead, dulling skin cells to your complexion’s surface, gently loosening and removing them to reveal the brighter, clearer, more even radiance beneath. Gentler than other AHAs, lactic acid has moisturising properties to keep skin smooth and soft – plus, it’s enhanced with 1% hyaluronic acid (this is a low molecular weight to allow it to penetrate skin and provide hydration below the surface). Try this to achieve brighter, more even skin with the appearance of wrinkles reduced. /The Inkey List/
This product comes in The Inkey List design 30 ml/1.0 fl.oz. plastic bottle with the “press” cap. It is colourless, odourless, watery liquid.
How to use it?
Use in the PM. Apply one to two drops to the fingers and gently pat into cleansed skin. Follow with other serums and moisturisers. Start with one application every other night and increase to once daily if desired. /The Inkey List/
This is what the brand recommends, but I would recommend for the first time Lactic Acid users to start as the second step after hydrating toner or to even mix this product with other water-based serum to minimize skin sensitivity. Let that tingle be just a tingle, not raging stinging.
With time, how your skin increases its tolerance to this acid, you can use it as the regular exfoliator or the active, meaning you can use it right after the cleansing, directly to a clean(sed) skin.
Of course, you should use sun protection during the day.
Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Besides the active ingredient – lactic acid, this formulation contains soothing and hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid in sodium hyaluronate form and very interesting Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract. This plant extract is used as the soothing and anti-inflammatory agent.
Yes and NO. Depending on how sensitive your skin really is and/or have you used acids in your skin care regimen before.
Who is it for?
All skin types, but for sensitive skin see all mentioned above
Does it work?
Yes it does! Its effects were visible on my face really quickly. When I first used it, it was “oh God! This stuff is strong!” Tingling sensation was almost stinging, and I used it after hydrating toner. In the morning my skin was already brighter and more “alive” to see.
Then I made a pause with it and didn’t use it until next week. I did exactly like the first time I used it and the result was obvious in the morning, again.
The week after that, I put it on clean skin and it did tingle/sting again. The next day I noticed peeled skin patches under my bb cream. That didn’t look too horrible, but again… Luckily, this was very quickly gone and actually showed the exact action of this exfoliating serum.
After that and couple of more usages of this product, talking about the bright, better-looking skin! BB cream looks good on me now.
My skin tone dramatically improved.
What is it?
This product is another one with the cannabis sativa seed oil, that I mentioned in my previous article. Told ya it was popular ingredient!
This one is a moisturizer. A soothing cream made to calm irritation and to protect and plump skin. This is what the brand says about it:
Derived from the hemp plant, hemp oil contains a high content of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which moisturise and nourish skin to leave it looking (and feeling!) as energised and healthy as possible. Soothingly rich yet lightweight, this Hemp Oil Cream Moisturiser calms irritation and stress, replenishing moisture and plumping skin to keep it at its vibrant, youthful best. It’s perfect for those with dry skin or flakiness, or for any complexion that needs a boost of nourishment – particularly if it has become irritated by lifestyle factors such as sun exposure or air conditioning. Speaking of which, the addition of green tea extract, an antioxidant, helps to protect skin from environmental aggressors to minimise the damage they can cause. /The Inkey List/
It comes in The Inkey List design 30 ml/1.0 fl.oz plastic tube with the screw cap.
It is slightly beige light cream, almost emulsion with characteristic ‘grassy’ scent to it.
How to use it?
Use in the AM and PM. On cleansed skin apply a pea-sized amount and gently massage into the face and neck. Use after serums. /The Inkey List/
Nothing to add there.
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Isoamyl Laurate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Betaine, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Propanediol, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, t-Butyl Alcohol
Hemp seed oil with the help of coconut oil (again), could lead us to think this cream is too heavy, but surprisingly isn’t.
Great ingredients like betaine (humectant and skin conditioner with both soothing and anti-wrinkle properties) and green tea leaf extract (anti-oxidant, skin soothing) make this cocktail appealing.
Who is it for?
All skin types
Does it work?
Nice, soothing, surprisingly light. Regardless coconut oil, it isn’t heavy at all. Nothing too dramatic to see after over a month use but still a nice moisturizer to keep skin calm and moisturized. It didn’t break me out or did anything else unwanted.
I use it whenever I please – in the morning, during the day, in the evening. My skin likes it.
But it does have a con. After a month or so, it’s gone! I almost finished this little 30 ml /1 fl.oz. tube.
And I didn’t even use it every day.
What is it?
This is 30% pure stable L-Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) silicone suspension. Very similar or better-said very same ingredients as The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone.
The Inkey List says:
A powerful antioxidant with a host of benefits, vitamin C is a skin care celebrity for a reason. Able to both prevent and correct signs of damage, Vitamin C Serum can help to reduce the impact of daily skin stressors, including pollution and sun exposure, which can lead to pigmentation, accelerated signs of ageing and dullness (no thanks!) As well as this, vitamin C works to actively brighten and even out skin tone, while also boosting collagen production to enhance skin’s plumpness and elasticity. Offering all of these benefits (without eye-watering cost or alienating jargon) THE INKEY LIST’s Vitamin C Serum stars 30% pure, L-Ascorbic Acid in a stable, waterless formulation for optimum results and low irritation. Add this into your regime and you can expect bright, even, protected, youthful-looking skin. /The Inkey List/
This product is white, silicony cream with faint fresh scent to it. It also comes in 30 ml / 1.0 fl.oz. plastic tube.
How to use it?
Can be used in the AM and PM. Use in the AM for best results. Apply a pea-sized amount to cleansed face and neck and follow with moisturisers. Warnings: Avoid the eye area. A slight tingling sensation can be expected, particularly if you are new to the product. Product may cause irritation, if irritation persists discontinue use. Ensure product is kept out of sunlight in a cool dry environment. Always ensure lid is sealed. External use only. /The Inkey List/
Ok, this way of using this product (right after cleansing) wasn’t exactly the best way for my skin. As silicone suspensions are occlusive per se (create barrier on the skin), other moisturizers and serums aren’t exactly in position to penetrate skin after this vitamin c suspension.
So I use it as the last step before sun protection. This way not only it does what it claims to be doing (brightening, whitening and skin protecting), it doubles as one of the best primers ever.
Dimethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Peg-10 Dimethicone
Yes and NO, depending on how your skin is sensitive to higher concentrations of vitamin c. Or silicones
Who is it for?
All skin types, but not so much for sensitive skin
Does it work?
Oh yes! It is very efficient skin brightener but it does give me strong tingling sensation. Every single time. But it does its job really, really well.
Using it as mentioned above (as the last step) this product never pilled, but it would pill if used before oils or oily suspensions. As any other silicone suspension would.
It took its time to kick in, though. The process of introducing this product into my skin care regimen was long. First, it tingles, second, I was trying out the best ways of using it. I tried it on clean skin, I mixed it with other serums, emulsions and creams and the final verdict is: the best way of using it is as the last step (before sun protection) of my morning skin care. My skin is visibly brighter, stronger, “thicker” if you please.
Yes, very much so.