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What is it?
It is a serum with 10% Azelaic acid, made by Garden of Wisdom (GoW), a small family skin care company based in Arizona (USA). They made a collaboration with Victoria Health, UK health and beauty web-shop and launched their first batch of GoW for Victoria Health products in July 2018.
Garden of Wisdom promotes cruelty-free, natural, gentle approach to the skin philosophy of their products with emphasis to correct strength of actives with the least amount of inactive ingredients in their formulations.
Now that leads us to the question: What is Azelaic acid?
I have already reviewed product with 10% Azelaic acid and mentioned that azelaic acid is very good for rosacea skin as it calms inflammation, reduces redness and evens skin tone and is often prescribed by dermatologists as part of rosacea treatment.
Azelaic acid is dicarboxylic acid usually derived from the wheat, barley or rye, but in skin care products is mostly used lab-engineered type because of its stability. The most efficient concentrations are those of 15% – 20% (medical concentration), but 10% concentration is also proven to be efficient to inflamed skin or skin that combats dull, uneven tone or hyperpigmentation.
The most important benefits of azelaic acid are:
- Reduces inflammation (rosacea, acne, even keratosis pilaris or chicken skin),
- Reduces hyperpigmentation,
- Evens skin tone,
- Refines skin texture,
- Unclogs pores,
- Brightens skin.
It can be combined with other acids (AHA, BHA, PHA) but for rosacea skin that can be too much. For other skin concerns, that shouldn’t be a problem.
Of course, when on azelaic acid treatment, use sunscreen in the morning (SPF 30 and more) even if you used it only in PM skin care regimen.
This GoW Azelaic Acid 10% Serum in particular, is a white, thin liquid with no particular scent to it. It comes in 30 ml / 1 Oz plastic bottle with a pump dispenser.
pH 5.3 – 5.5
How to use it?
Apply 1 to 2 pumps to your face and neck after cleansing, before creams and oils in the AM and PM. Use sunscreen during the day. /GOW/
I use it as the first step right after cleansing on a clean skin (no toner). Two pumps in the PM and one pump in the AM. More than two pumps leaves white, chalky residue on skin that goes away with applying other skin care steps. Or you can use less, only on specific areas of the skin.
Start using it gradually (every other day at first, then gradually every day) to avoid skin sensitivity.
Distilled Water, Azelaic Acid 10%, Glycerin, Sodium Lactate, Leucidal SF (Lactobacillus Ferment), Jojoba Protein, Silica Gel, Carbomer, Dehydroxyxanthan Gum, Liposomes (Phospholipon) (derived from soy), Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate)
Very engaged, simple, yet efficient ingredients list. Water based, enriched with glycerine, Jojoba Protein and hyaluronic acid for added moisturizing properties to avoid drying effects of azelaic acid. Interestingly enough, preservative used here is Leucidal SF as the natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.
Yes, but please do the patch test first just to make sure.
Who is it for?
All skin types, sensitive skin, rosacea, acne, hyperpigmentation, aging skin
Does it work?
I like it better than The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension. Not only for the texture and spreadability reasons, but this serum is less sensitizing and shows results far more quickly. Actually, this is the first 10% concentration of azelaic acid to be this efficient on my face. I have been using it around one month, but I already have steady results regarding face redness and skin texture overall.
This summer wasn’t easy on my skin. It broke out ever so easily, as the answer to travelling and hot weather. Add a pinch of stress, and there you have it: wonderful, flourished rosacea in all of its glory.
Then this little guy came and made things better. My skin reacted so well to it and regardless summer, I continued to use it every day (avoiding it only on the beach days) with (of course) strong sunscreen during the day. Not only it calmed my latest break out, it kept my face under control sebum-wise in all of this heat.
Here is the example of my daytime skin care routine with this serum included:
It is still on.
The only con is that it dries really chalky if applied too much. But, then again, that’s easy to deal with. Just continue with other essences, creams or oils, and problem solved.
I bought it then after spending some time in pre-order list of Victoria Health, and something tells me I would do it again.